Monday, December 26, 2011

Little Giant 6-CIA, 1/3 HP, 45 GPM - Automatic Submersible Sump Pump, 10' power cord (506168)

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Brand : Little Giant
Rate :
Price : $119.95
Post Date : Dec 27, 2011 01:48:52
Usually ships in 1-2 business days



"BIG JOHN" SUBMERSIBLE SUMP PUMP For residential and light commercial use, the 1/3 HP automatic submersible sump pump provides efficient and reliable service. Pump has a 1 1/2" discharge with an 18' maximum head. Cast iron motor housing is oil-filled for lifetime lubrication and excellent heat dissipation. Polycarbonate cover and polypropylene volute-base. 3/10 Hp, 115 Volt, 10' Power Cord Screened inlet Epoxy coated cast iron motor housing for corrosion and rust resistance Oil filled motor housing for lifetime lubrication and rapid heat dissipation Stainless steel screws, bolts, and handle Mechanical seals (stainless steel spring, nitrile parts, carbon and ceramic faces) Automatic operation with pressure switch operates pump when water level is between 7" and 10". Pump shuts off when water level falls to between 1" and 4". (Pressure switch is non-adjustable) Thermal overload protection Specifications : Horsepower - 1/3 Flow - 2750 GPH @ 5' of Head Cord Length - 10' Shut Off - 18' Voltage - 115 Hertz - 50/60 Amps - 9 Watts - 720 Weight - 17.5 lbs. Height - 6" Width - 8.5" Length - 9.5"

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Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Pondless Waterfalls - Concrete Vs Pond Liner

!: Pondless Waterfalls - Concrete Vs Pond Liner

The get-rich-quick factor in the pond liner industry has forced up the price of pond liner kits to equal the cost of concrete construction. If you search for the truth about concrete ponds and waterfalls from reading the literature of the greed-driven liner pond industry, you will not find it. Why? Because if the truth be known, no one in their right mind would invest good, hard-earned money in a pond liner!

The pond liner track record speaks for itself:

More than 37% of all waterfalls have serious structural damage within 3 years of construction.

57% of homeowners say they are rather unsatisfied with the way their waterfall came out after the project was completed.

One in three waterfalls and ponds are leaking water within nine months of completion.

63% of "do-it-yourselfers" say they wished they had the proper information from the "get go" or that they had hired someone.

These statistics are from the pond liner industry itself (Bob Wilder, 48-Hour Waterfall). I can confirm and attest to these figures myself. I have built over 1,900 concrete and rebar waterfalls and ponds over the past 26 years. I have ripped out and replaced dozens of defective liner ponds and replaced them with concrete ones with lifetime warranties.

Pond liner guys will not attach more than a one-year warranty. They make no guarantee against rats, mice, ground squirrels, gophers, tree roots and sharp objects.

Let's compare apples to lemons... First, let's talk about apples (concrete waterfalls). We will construct a pondless waterfall that is 20 inches wide at the top by 20 feet long, becoming 24 inches wide at the bottom, to create a spillway 3 feet tall. At the bottom is a catch basin 4 ft. x 6 ft. x 3 ft. deep. The costs of excavation are as follows:

To dig a waterfall and basin takes two men 4 hours @ per hour = 0.

The flexible PVC pipe is 35 ft. @ .25 per ft. = .
Concrete (3500 psi with stealth fiber)): 2 yards = 0.
20 pieces of 20 ft. x 3/8 inch rebar = 0.
One 1/3 HP high efficiency pump, 2800 GPH, 356 watts = 9.
One anti-vortex drain = .
Four 2 x 4 ft. heavy plastic corrugated or galvanized plans to cover the collection basin = . Setting the rebar: 3 man-hrs. = 5.
Pumping and finishing 2 yards of concrete: 4 man-hrs. @ /hr. = 0.
Applying thoro-seal, 1 sack + 1 hour = .
Rock work + 8 sacks mortar mix: labor - 8 man-hrs. @ /hr. = 0.
Mortar: .

TOTAL EXCAVATION COST FOR A CONCRETE POND = ,236.

With this type of construction, no filter is needed. The water in the basin is not exposed to sunlight, so there are no algae. Plus the top layer of rock and the planks are easily removed for cleaning out debris about once a year. If a plastic screen is placed over the planks before the rock layer, cleaning is reduced by 90%.

Now let's talk about the lemons (the liner folks). The pondless waterfall liner kit advertised by all the disciples of the "liner messiah" on their websites is ,940 + tax & shipping, or ,176.

And now for the math: One concrete/rebar construction pondless waterfall completed with high-efficiency pump = ,236. One pondless liner kit to build a pondless waterfall of the exact same dimensions = ,176. If I did the math correctly, the completed concrete pondless waterfall costs more than the pondless waterfall liner kit; however, it is still in the box!

Concrete and rebar pondless waterfall has a lifetime warranty. Liner pondless waterfall: 1 yr. warranty on labor, lifetime warranty against factory defect. But there is no warranty whatsoever against holes caused by rats, mice, ground squirrels, gophers, tree roots, sharp objects, etc. Sorry Charlie!

Concrete and rebar pondless waterfalls use a high-efficiency above-ground pump that is easy to service (it has a 3 yr. warranty). The 1/3 HP pump is small, very quiet, and easily hidden behind a couple of rocks or plants next to the falls, or piped to another part of the yard. The liner pondless waterfall uses a submersible sump pump that is placed in the bottom of the basin, and then buried with hundreds of pounds of rocks. To service this pump (only a 2 yr. warranty), all the slimy, stinky rocks have to be removed from the basin first.

The concrete and rebar pondless waterfall pump produces 5,800 gallons per hour at only 356 watts (retail 9). The liner pondless waterfall kit comes with a sump pump (they advertise as "the best pump on the market"). It produces 5,700 gal/hour (100 gal. less) at a whopping 911 watts of power (over twice that of the above-ground pump). You will pay 5 more per year for electricity (at $.12/kwh) for that extra 555 watts. Their pump costs 0 retail (1 more than the above-ground). Oh, did I mention "the best warranty in the industry" is only 2 years, compared to 3 years for the above-ground?

The concrete and rebar pondless waterfall's rocks are all mortared in place. So anyone, especially small children, can climb on the rocks without them moving, with possible serious injury resulting. With liner pondless waterfalls, rocks will move and shift on their own without help. After a few months, the ugly liner is exposed in the falls and around the pond.

While building the concrete pondless waterfall, design liberties can be taken, such as altering the length, width or shape of the feature. With a liner pondless waterfall, the parameters have already been set by the manufacturer of the kit.

The concrete pondless waterfall can utilize the large, open basin to install an Aquafill automatic water leveling device. In addition, the basin can be made smaller because the space for water is not taken up by rocks as it is in the liner pondless waterfall basin. The only rock that exists is on top of the galvanized or plastic plank cover.

Wow! Concrete waterfalls are stationary, permanent, lifetime life-expectancy, cheaper to build, cheaper to operate, easier to clean, easy to maintain, longer pump warranty, safer and more natural looking! Apples or lemons? You be the judge!

I am sick and tired of these amateurs giving my life-long profession a bad name by their exaggerated, dishonest and sensational claims - only to be backed up by a nebulous warranty and, at best, shoddy workmanship. My disclaimer: There are professionals installing liners that do take measures to prevent rodent or root attacks by placing a think layer of mortar under and over the liner.

I found that if you are going to go to all that extra work and expense, just build it with 3500 psi concrete to begin with!


Pondless Waterfalls - Concrete Vs Pond Liner

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Thursday, December 8, 2011

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Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Flotec FP0S1300X-03 Tempest 1/6 HP 1,470 GPH Utility Submersible Pump

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Brand : Flotec | Rate : | Price : $83.28
Post Date : Nov 24, 2011 00:18:25 | Usually ships in 24 hours


  • Powered by oil cooled 1/6 Hp motor
  • The motor is 115 volt, 60 Hz, single phase 5.0 amp with automatic thermal overload protection
  • Pumps 1,470 gallons per hour
  • Pump requires a minimum water depth of 1/2" for start-up
  • Pumps down to within 3/16" of the pump base

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Flotec FP0S1300X-03 Tempest 1/6 HP 1,470 GPH Utility Submersible Pump

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Wednesday, November 9, 2011

How to Clean an Oriental or Area Rug That Has Pet Urine

!: How to Clean an Oriental or Area Rug That Has Pet Urine

The first step in cleaning an Oriental or Area rug is pre-inspection. You should identify the type of material it is made out of. Some rugs are hand made and some are machine made. Most hand made rugs do not contain any glue and many are made out of wool. Do not hand wash a rug that contains glue as hand washing will break down the glue. I also do not suggest hand washing a rug that has a cotton backing or rugs that have a similar backing like carpet because these rugs contain glue.

1.Identify the material the rug is made out of. Most wool, nylon, and polypropolene rugs are cleanable if they do not contain glue. I would consult a professional if the one is made of cotton, silk, or Rayon.

2. Vacuum it thoroughly, then test the rug for dye stability with a white cloth and a neutral oriental rug cleaner. Hold for at least 1 minute with the concentrated cleaner. If little to no dye has bled onto the cloth, especially on any pet urine areas as these are likely to be highly alkaline, then you should be safe to proceed. I say "should be safe to proceed" because there is no guarantee that you will not cause damage to the rug by cleaning. There is always a chance of damaging the rug when cleaning. I believe dye migration during the drying period is the leading cause of rug damage from cleaning.

3. Dusting is recommended, but not a requirement. Dusting the rug can be achieved by vacuuming the rug upside down.

preferably on top of a drag mat used for grooming baseball fields as this will help more dirt to fall out of the rug.

4. Wet the rug till soaked with water. You can use a garden hose with the rug on a sloped concrete driveway. Note: the best way to clean would be inside a rug pit made of 3" PVC with a pond liner.

5. Dilute the rug cleaning solution as recommended by the manufacturer and pour onto the rug being sure to have good coverage.

6. Groom solution into the rug and agitate with a large broom or carpet groomer.

7. Allow for dwell time, usually 30 minutes to an hour is good.

8. Rinse. This is where a rug pit is very helpful because you can fill the pit and flush the rug cleaning solution out of the rug easier, and drain with a sump pump. A driveway with a slope works too, it just takes a lot more effort to rinse the rug.

9. Using an acidic carpet and fabric rinsing solution is recommended as a final rinse. It can be added to the rug pit when full or diluted with a 5 gallon bucket of water and poured onto the rug if cleaning in a driveway.

Flushing the rug with water as much as possible is best with either method. I recommend using a carpet wand to assist with flushing the rug along with the water by lightly pushing and dragging it along the rug.

10. Vacuum as much water out of the rug as possible with a portable carpet extractor or truck-mounted carpet extractor and a carpet wand. Hint: Getting the rug as dry as possible at this time is very important.

11. Hang to dry. I recommend building a drying rack with 3" PVC to drape the rug over. Place an air mover at the bottom of the rug to dry as the moisture will fall with gravity to the base of the rug.

12. Wait for drying to complete. This is usually 3-4 days depending on the weather. I recommend drying indoors in a climate controlled environment when possible.

13. Remove rug and inspect.

14. If the rug has fringes, I suggest cleaning them with a browning solution purchased from a professional carpet cleaning supply. Rinse fringes with a portable or truck-mounted carpet cleaning machine with heat. If fringes need more brightening, I suggest carefully applying an oxidizer.

such as stain magic purchased at a carpet cleaning supply store. Allow to dwell. Rinse.

15. if the rug has stretched from hanging to dry then clean the back of the rug with a heated carpet cleaning machine and dry with the rug laying flat upside down with an air mover placed on it.

16. Final inspection. Repeat any step if necessary.


How to Clean an Oriental or Area Rug That Has Pet Urine

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Saturday, November 5, 2011

New 2600 GPH Submersible Water Pump Pond Pump Fountain Waterfall Pump

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Rate : | Price : $64.95 | Post Date : Nov 05, 2011 20:39:13
Usually ships in 1-2 business days

Best Choice Products Presents to you this Brand New 2600 GPH (UL APPROVED) AQUARIUM SUBMERSIBLE WATER FOUNTAIN WATERFALL POND PUMP. Our submersible pump is Suitable for Both INDOOR and OUTDOOR, can pumps up to 2600 Gallon Per Hour and makes a great sump pump for all around use. Its perfect for Ponds, Water Fountains, Waterfalls, Gardens, Aquariums and Flooding Yards, Etc.

FEATURES:

  • (UL) APPROVED/CE LISTED/CUL/GS.
  • Suitable for Both Indoor and Outdoor.
  • Powerful 2600 Gallon Per Hour Pump.
  • Pump Runs Quietly and is Extreme Reliable.
  • Minimum Vibration with Low Noise and Completely Submersible.
  • Oil free, Grease Free Magnetic Motor to Avoid Pollution in Your Water.
  • Removable Cover, which Can Attach Direct Line Into Unit.
  • Comes with Everything You Need, Simply Plug-In and Ready to Use.
  • 6ft (UL) Cord with 3 Different Sizes Prong.

    SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Inlet Connection: 1.25
  • Outlet Size: 1
  • 6ft (UL) Cord and Plug
  • Power: 135 Watts
  • Output: 2600 GPH
  • Voltage: 120V/60Hz
  • Dimensions: Diameter 6 x 9.25(H).

    Can be used in Salt and Fresh Water such as Aquariums, Ponds, Waterfalls, Gardens and Flooding Yards, Etc.

    WE PURCHASE ALL OF OUR PRODUCTS DIRECTLY FROM THE MANUFACTURE, PROVIDING THE BEST PRICES. BUY FROM US AND SAVE BIG.!!

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    Monday, October 24, 2011

    Little Giant 566722 Magnetic Drive Pond Pump 1150 GPH, #PES-1000-PW

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    Brand : Little Giant | Rate : | Price : $78.00
    Post Date : Oct 24, 2011 08:12:06 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days


    • LITTLE GIANT PES-1000-PW MAGNETIC DRIVE POND PUMP
    • 1150 GPH
    • Operates with minimal energy consumption resulting in low operating costs
    • Corrosion-resistant body specifically for submersible use
    • Easy to install and maintain

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    Little Giant 566722 Magnetic Drive Pond Pump 1150 GPH, #PES-1000-PW

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    Friday, October 21, 2011

    Wayne Water Systems VIP50 1/2 HP 2,500 GPH Submersible Utility Water Pump

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    Brand : Wayne | Rate : | Price : $75.72
    Post Date : Oct 21, 2011 08:55:59 | Usually ships in 24 hours


    • 1/2-horsepower submersible utility water pump can handle material up to 1/2-inch thick without clogging
    • Removes water within 1/8-inch of surface
    • Glass reinforced housing prevents rust
    • Connects to garden hose with 3/4-inch adjustable discharge adapter
    • 1-year limited warranty

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    Monday, October 17, 2011

    Reasons to Use a Sump Pump

    !: Reasons to Use a Sump Pump

    Little Giant sump pumps are extremely useful electronic appliances employed for the sole purpose of maintaining the level of water within a sump reservoir in order to ensure that flooding does not occur particularly during rainy seasons. Little Giant sump pumps are amongst the most reliable and durable appliances available in the market. Although these machines are primarily used for drainage purposes, they can also indirectly provide a number of benefits to the owner through various differing channels.

    Flooding and drainage problems in basements can lead to a number of major issues which eventually lead to foundational and structural predicaments that can reduce the value of the property. Therefore, with a proper drainage system maintained by the installation of a sump pump can help keep the foundation of a house secure thereby maintaining the monetary value of that particular property. On the other hand, such devices also provide continued protection against extreme climatic conditions and keep basements clean and dry. This is extremely important since people tend to use basements for storage purposes as well as the fact that excessive moisture can lead to significant health problems.

    Furthermore, sump pumps can also help decrease the amount of decay that occurs such as fungus and mildew. If such problems are left to fester, they can lead to health issues for occupants living within the house. On the other hand, minute flooding occurring within a basement can also lead to corrosion of metallic objects thereby reducing their respective working life. Also, water drainage problems can cause damage to paint and wall coverings. Consequently, once such damage has occurred, subsequent renovation procedures that are initiated can be extremely costly. Hence, sump pumps help owners to avoid hefty expenses in regards to house maintenance.

    Therefore, it can be clearly seen that although drainage pumps are used ultimately for the primary purpose of maintaining water level within the reservoir pit, they result in lots of indirect benefits that can have long term impacts. Since installation of such devices leads to adequate maintenance of the foundation as well as keeping the house structurally secure, they can also prevent insect infestation such as termites. The cost of removal of termite infestation can be extremely hefty and a drainage device can help prevent such a situation from occurring.

    Hence, sump pumps are of extreme importance to house owners because of the vast array of benefits that they provide. Eventually they are vital towards the maintenance of the monetary valuation of a particular property.


    Reasons to Use a Sump Pump

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    Monday, April 11, 2011

    New 636:Submersible Sump Pump for Basements:Ponds:Pools

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    Brand : Ridge Rock | Rate : | Price :
    Post Date : Apr 12, 2011 06:40:09 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days


    Brand New Submersible Sump Pump - 1/2HP! Rated Power: 350 Watts Max Delivery Capacity: 1200 Gallons / Hour Q Max: 5.5 m^3/h H Max: 7m Particle Size Max: 5mm Max Delivery Height: 7m Max Submersion Depth: 5m Minimum Water Level for operation: 7cm Cut in height: 53cm Cut out height: 5cm Cut in and Cut Out Height is Adjustable. Voltage: 110V Frequency: 60HZ Cord Length: @ 16 Feet Note: Due to supplier variation the product color and specifications may vary slightly.

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    Wednesday, March 30, 2011

    Setting Up a Freshwater Tropical Fish Aquarium

    !: Setting Up a Freshwater Tropical Fish Aquarium

    Now that you have decided what size of tank you what and picked up everything you need to get started we can continue setting up your freshwater tropical fish aquarium.

    The first thing you will want to do is place the stand in your chosen location. Remember you want it where it can be seen and appreciated completely but not in direct sunlight. You will want to keep the tank about six to eight inches from the wall to allow for the pump, electrical cords and the ability to access the back of the tank. After you have the stand in place insure that it is level. Place your tank on the stand and double check that everything is level. Start setting up your freshwater tropical fish aquarium by placing the gravel (wash with cool water first) and shape it into the look you like. I found by creating a gradual rise of the gravel level from front to back your tank will look deeper from front to back.

    Hang the filter on the back of the tank toward the edge of one side. Put the heater into the opposite back corner by affixing it to the glass with the suction cups. Run the cords down and plug them into the power bar. DO NOT have the power bar plugged in.

    The next step is add your decorations and plants, plastic or live. I recommend using live plants as they help to keep your tank clean and healthy. If you decide to use live plants we will need to add some water first. I will discuss the steps to setting up your tank for live plants in the post called Live Plants in a Freshwater Tropical Fish Aquarium. There is no hard and fast rule about Accessories, decorations, rocks, plants or other items you may want in your tank, other than they must not be toxic or have the ability to leech toxins into the tank. This is where you can let your imagination go to work. If a week or two later you don't like the look you can rearrange it and give your aquarium a new look.

    OK, your tank is the way you want it to look. Place a saucer or any small plate on the gravel. We will pour the water onto this so as not to disturb the gravel, or decorations. Stirring up the gravel also adds to the initial cloudiness of the water. Water that is added to an aquarium needs to be conditioned to remove chlorine and other chemicals toxic to fish. I use a product called Aqua Plus. Fill the tank approximately one third full and than have a look and see if everything looks good.  Your aquascaping is the way you want it and this is also a good time to check for leaks, seldom happens but better to be safe than sorry. If you are using live plants this is the time to place them in the tank. I explain this process in my article titled Live Plants in a Freshwater Tropical Fish Aquarium. If everything is in place and looking good, you can finish filling the tank.

    Now that your tank is full, the next step is to get the water circulating and warmed up. Check to be sure that the heater and filter are plugged into the non-timed side of the power bar and the light on the timer side. Plug the power bar into a wall outlet and than set the timer for twelve to fourteen hours. This is the the optimal time that the aquarium should get light.

    Now that everything is running we need to just let the system run as is. I usually let it run for about five to seven days to let the water warm up and clear. In the meantime you may want to order a basic water test kit. We are going to have to make sure the water is safe for the new inhabitants. We will talk about water tests in my article called The Nitrogen Cycle of a Freshwater Tropical Fish Aquarium.


    Setting Up a Freshwater Tropical Fish Aquarium

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    Monday, March 21, 2011

    Backup Sump Pump - Read Before You Buy

    !: Backup Sump Pump - Read Before You Buy

    If you just built or purchased a home or business with a sump pump it is critical that you install a backup sump pump to go along with the master pump. Why? Basement sump pump failures fall into the "WHEN" not "IF" category when it comes to failures. When the inevitable failure does occur, you better be prepared, especially since most insurance companies will not insure against ground water floods.

    Here is a list of items you should consider before you buy your backup pump.

    First, determine what types of backup sump pumps you're eligible to use. There are two main types of backup pumps: water powered and battery powered. If your water source is from a pond or well you can only use a battery backup sump pump. If your water source is from your municipality, a water powered sump pump becomes an option for you.

    Second, find out the dimensions of your sump pit. Pits vary in size and often times, consumers purchase a recommended backup sump pump only to get it home and find that there is not enough room for both pumps to reside. Be sure to measure the depth, and diameter of your pit. Also, take note of the amount of space that your primary unit occupies. Ceiling mounted backup units are becoming popular because they stay out of the way of the main pump.

    Next, consider your installation preferences. Are you a handyman? Plan to perform your own self install? If so, make sure the pump you buy includes an installation kit. Know what is included with the kit - a good kit will contain custom fittings, pipes, clamps, screws, and mounts that will make the installation a breeze. If you're not up to the installation challenge - hire a professional. Typical costs are about 0.00.

    Another important factor to be aware of during your purchase research is your sump pump cover (or lack thereof). Some establishments will have a radon sealed cover that needs special consideration for sump size and depth. Radon is a gas that's known to cause cancer. If your pit already has a sealed cover, play on the safe side and make sure your new installation can also fit into the sealed area. If you're curious about learning more about Radon - this site from the EPA is a great source of reliable information. http://www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/consguid.html

    Keep in mind whether your backup system has an audible alarm to alert you when the water does reach an increased level. Most home and business owners want to be aware when the water climbs too high, just in Case there's a problem with the backup unit as well. Many units come with alarms equipped. However, alarms can be purchased separately.

    Check the float before buying your backup unit. It's important to make sure that the float does not have mechanical or electrical parts that can break (a common problem for primary pumps). During installation be sure the floater is not rubbing on other parts so it does not get hung up.

    Consider the warranty options and protection with your new purchase. Businesses that warranty their products believe in the product they're marketing. At the same time, check to see what the process is for claiming a warranty. Be sure they don't offer a great warranty that is impossible to collect on when necessary. Also, check the manufacturer history and reputation and see that they've been in business for at least 5 years.

    What is the best backup sump pump? That is an impossible question to answer without the facts from the question above. Everyone's environment is different and unique. The only indisputable fact is that you need a backup sump pump if you have a primary unit. Period.


    Backup Sump Pump - Read Before You Buy

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